Changi Point - Sunset Walk: An Initmate Celebration of Orgiastic Colours

An accidental pit-stop: who knew the old Changi Point would hold this secret treasury of such a colourful scene...?

It was still early after lunch with my colleagues after work today. I decided to take a breather with a change of scenery and packed a simple picnic, heading off to Changi point for the evening. Since it’s a weekday, I know it would be quiet at that remote part of the island. What I was not aware though, is the breathtaking view at sunset: a veritable smorgasbord of colours awaits anyone patient enough to linger. As the sun descends to kiss the horizon, the sky celebrates the intimacy, bursting in an orgy of colours. It’s a sensational visual treat, an incredible sight for sore and jaded eyes.

Not many are aware of this spot, tucked away at the western end of Changi Point. It is a boardwalk, which offers a beautiful view of the coastline. This 2.2-km boardwalk is open 24 hours. Strolling along this continuous scenic route is easy with any comfortable walking shoes.

There are six distinct sections on this boardwalk: Creek Walk, Beach Walk, Sailing Point Walk, Cliff Walk, Kelong Walk and Sunset Walk. It begins from Changi Creek in the east and stretches to the western rocky coast near Changi Beach Club before finally linking up to Changi Point or Loyang Park Connector at Netheravon Road.

The 'Sunset Walk' allows you to enjoy a splendid view of the sunset at the western end of Changi Point, amid a backdrop of huge boulders. In the evening, the walkway is soft-lit and you can see the lights of the Punggol Housing Estate in the distance. This provides a good spot for a romantic stroll. This is the end of the boardwalk. You can choose to double back via the way you came from or head back to Changi Ferry Terminal via Cranwell and then Netheravon Road. If you choose to walk down Netheravon Road, it is another 2.5 km.

After this little trip (an accidental pit-stop), my memory of this place as a embarkation point for bumboat journeys to Ubin and Tekong (during my army daze) will have to change. It’s now changed from a hazy sort of olive drab to a dazzling array of rainbow hues.

Orchard Road: A little jaunt down the shopping belt...

The Orchard Road belt is Singapore’s premiere shopping district. All labels gravitates towards one of the sought after, premium-price malls along the stretch of road that once used to be home to acres of nutmeg plantations.

Zoom in to read my personal experience and take on the individual featured malls here.

Memories are made of: The Dragon at the Park

 

The very iconic Dragon Fountain Park at Whampoa, Block 85, Whampoa Drive.

I was just chatting up with fellow Urban Sketcher Don and his lovely wife, Kat the other day about a possible sketchwalk at Whampoa Estate and the surrounding Jalan Bahagia neighbourhood. I was sharing with them about the good food at Whampoa Market, the iconic dragon fountain at block 85, which used to be part of a complete landscaped park to its surrounding estate. A walking distance away, there is the historical ten-story houses of differing styles at Jalan Bahagia and Jalan Tenteram (literally Happy and Quiet Street, respectively). One must also remark on the St Michael bus terminal and the list could go on with this, one of Singapore’s oldest estates.

It is of little coincidence then, that I found myself at the very estate, which is near my office and wandering towards the very dragon fountain that was once many a lovers’ haunt during its heyday in the late 70s and 80s. In fact, that was how I made my acquaintance with the park. During those days, it is not uncommon for dating couples to bring one’s younger relative along on dates as an unofficial ‘chaperone’.

I was one such chaperone for my aunt’s dates.

My aunt and her then-boyfriend-now-husband (for thirty-one years now, bless them…) would have their dates here in this park. I remember a small playground of cement animal sculptures and a series of very ornate covered trash bins, which are no longer there, of course. They have all given way to the run of the mill modern ones, boringly made of plastic. The willow trees, which I also remember swaying against the indigo evening sky, are still there. And then, of course, there is the dragon fountain, the very icon and symbol of the park, if not the estate. 

The namesake dragon at the park.

The 4-meter tall dragon, surging out a body of sculpted water and reaching towards the heavens, used to spout water from its mouth. In the evening, a park attendant would spigot the fountain off. When I am there, I would stay to watch the mesmerising body of water dancing against the brilliantly lit body of the dragon, slowly trailing into a drizzle before disappearing into the dragon’s breathing, gaping mouth.

And then there is the silent park, under the starry Prussian blue sky with sparkling diamonds.

“Okay, the water’s gone now… it’s time to go…” she said, as my aunt held my hand, her boyfriend holding my other hand and we’d walk home to grandma’s.

Memories…

The Bukit Timah Railway Station

The Bukit Timah Railway Station: The Lady of the Tracks from the outside...

The beautiful station from the inside; the attraction is the authentic brickwork architecture authentic to the period it was built.

The iconic signage at the station.

BACKGROUND

Bukit Timah Railway Station was a railway station (now a conserved recreational building) and crossing loop in Singapore, owned by Keretapi Tanah Melayu (KTM), the main railway operator in Malaysia.

It opened on the dismantled Tank Road mainline in 1903, was rebuilt on the current Singapore–Johor Bahru KTM Intercity mainline in 1932, until the Jurong Line shut down and it was a crossing loop station in the late 1940s until closure.

The station was a freight interchange for the now defunct Jurong Line from 1965 to the early 1990s. On 1 July 2011 the line closed following a historic land-swap agreement between the Singapore and Malaysia governments which saw rail service between Woodlands and Tanjong Pagar cease.

PERSONAL EXPERIENCE

I have not been to this station before this, but I remember my experience with the train service that ran along this track.

As an Interior Architecture student, my class was once tasked to redesign and remodel the Eastern and Oriental Express. We were required to design everything from the cabins, the drapes, the curtains and right down to the teaspoons used in the dining cars.

As part of our research efforts, a bunch of us took the train to the Federation up north. To fully immerse in the experience, some even booked first class tickets in the sleeper cars and journeyed in an all-nighter, all the way to the capital, Kuala Lumpur.

THE PRESENT AND THE PAST

The station is now defunct, of course. But when I walked around the station while sketching the place, I could almost imagine the station when it was first commissioned: people waiting at the station's seating parlour, with their luggage, anticipating the arrival of the train. It's the train that will bring them closer to their destination, to their home, to their loved ones, to their adventure, to their lives... beautiful, romantic and in sepia-toned black-and-white.

Chinatown over the mooncake festival...

The rainbow-hue lanterns hanging overhead is a change from the usual red ones...

After Mdm Tia's presentation at the TEDx event at URA, a bunch of us wandered around Chinatown to sketch the vicinity. The place is typically vibrant, but the newly installed rainbow-hue lanterns overhead in place of the usual red ones made the whole area look especially cheery. Unfortunately, it did not make the unusually hot and humid day any more bearable...

Urban Sketchers at Motoring Heritage Day by the National Heritage Board

People who know me well understand my affinity with Art Nouveau and Art Deco - one organic and the other futuristic linearity. They couldn't be further apart stylistically speaking, but between the curvilinear swirls and rectilinear streamlining, somehow these two design movements speak to me. In addition, when it comes to automobile designs, it is my personal opinion that nothing embodies the symbol of futurism, hope and a brave new world better than the 1930s Art Deco. Thus, when I doodle designs for cars and machinery of almost any sort, there is a usually a slant and a nod towards the style. See illustration below:

Sketch of a dream car done in 2006.

You can imagine my sense of euphoria at the recent Motoring Heritage Exhibition held at the Tanjong Pagar Railway Station along Keppel Road. Style on style: there is no better location for the event. It was literally my dream popping up in 3D and TECHNICOLOR™ with all the classic and vintage cars from the 30s all lined up and gleaming in the light.

After ogling at the pretty vehicles and gazing at them from distance, I finally got myself out of the daze to complete two sketches of a couple of my favourites...

1937 MG - TA and the 1939 MG - TB

1939 BMW - 327 Grand Touring Cabriolet

Sandalwood Apartments at Tembeling Road, Joo Chiat, Katong.

Sandalwood Apartments at Tembeling Road, Joo Chiat, Katong.

Sandalwood is an award winning conservation terrace houses from the Art Deco period. The original 12 units of surrounding terrace houses were integrated into the condominium project and conserved as private apartments forming a veil for the condominium apartments housed behind them. The conserved terraces have had their original facades, windows and door frames completely restored. The compound within is fully appointed with the amenities expected of a modern contemporary condominium – private pools, scenic walkways, etc.

This sketch is dedicated to two of my wonderful friends, S and J, who share an apartment in this beautiful condominium project.

Kway Guan Huat Joo Chiat Popiah & Kueh Pie Tie

Kway Guan Huat Joo Chiat Popiah & Kueh Pie Tie shop house restaurant at 95, Joo Chiat Road.

Kway Guan Huat Joo Chiat Popiah & Kueh Pie Tie

Popiah (薄饼) is my go to snack food when I feel peck-ish in the afternoon for a snack and it is available. Singapore Hokkien-style popiah is a burrito-like food and the filling is mainly finely grated and steamed or stir-fried turnip, jicama (known locally as bangkuang), which has been cooked with a combination of other ingredients such as bean sprouts, French beans, and lettuce leaves, depending on the individual vendor, along with grated carrots, slices of Chinese sausage, thinly sliced fried tofu, chopped peanuts or peanut powder, fried shallots, and shredded omelette.

Traditionally, popiah "skin" (薄饼皮) is a soft, thin paper-like crepe or pancake handmade from wheat flour. The method of producing the wrapper involves making an extremely wet and viscous dough. A ball of this dough is held to the right hand, then quickly "rubbed" (擦潤餅皮) against a hot steel plate in a circular fashion, and lifted. It is only through this handmade process, that a very thin layer of the wet dough adheres to the plate and begins to cook. The upper surface of the crepe is then usually cleaned of excess pieces of dough using the dough ball through a dabbing process. When the dough has been cooked to completion, it is peeled off of the hot steel plate before being removed. The rubbing is typically done over two or three plates at once, which allows the baker to continuously produce crepes and gives the proper time for each crepe to be properly cooked.

Kway Guan Huat is the only manufacturer I know that still makes this by hand. If you arrive early at the shop, you can order the shop’s specialty: popiah and kueh pie tee, and watch the masters perform and create their magic on the hot griddles. Their deft and rhythmic is at once hypnotic and elegant. You can have a go at making the skin, but don’t be fooled: there is a skill behind the deceptively simple movement. Check out the video:

I decided to do what I do best: eat and sketch. So while the popiah skin master was doing his thing, I did mine, with a pen, a sketchbook and a pair of chopsticks – to pick up the food). Popiah can be eaten on its own or accompanied with a sweet sauce (often a bean sauce), a blended soy sauce or hoisin sauce or a shrimp paste sauce and optionally with hot chilli sauce before it is filled. I like mine with chilli and without dip – just the way I remember it from my childhood.

Church of the Holy Family at Joo Chiat, Katong

View of the church from across the junction

Church of the Holy Family

During my Uni days, weekends meant a bus ride to East Coast Park for an afternoon of in-line skating along the beach. My bus’ route passes this Catholic church attended mainly by Eurasians living in the region. The Church of the Holy Family was established in 1902 here. The church building has gone through a few incarnations, but this current embodiment was consecrated in 1999, just before the new millennium. Apart from the very dramatic roof design, which was what caught my attention initially, the real pièce de résistance is the massive 16-panel stained glass on the side of the building, above the centrepiece altar, depicting the Holy Family and 16 scenes from Jesus' life.

Stained Glass Panel

The stained glass window by Joel Mone

My recent trips to Europe gave me a new appreciation for stained glass art featured on religious buildings. A little digging and I learnt that Joël Mône, who incidentally also crafted the stained glass panel for the chapel at CHIJMES two years prior, is the creator of the stained glass piece for the Church of the Holy Family. The artist, whose main artistic influences include Piet Mondrian, M. C. Escher and Claude Monet, was commissioned to create it for the church by the Vitrail Saint-Georges atelier in Lyon, France. Apparently, the architect and the church gave him complete autonomy with the colour choices, staining method, themes and composition of the stained glass. An interesting point to note is that the glass pieces blown plated pink-gray have been specially designed for this glassware at St Just St Rambert, France.

Scanteak at Joo Chiat

Scanteak at Joo Chiat: The outlet first started at this iconic location...

Scanteak at Joo Chiat is the 400 square foot of land that Mr Lim’s empire started. It now spans more than 100 retail outlets and flagship stores in Germany, Singapore, Taiwan, Brunei, Japan, Canada and USA.

I remember my college days when I’d flip through furniture catalogues and select their beautifully crafted teakwood products to fill my imaginary future dream home, complete with perspective drawings.

Now, I have my dream home. The price has gone over my pocket book’s capability. Hello, IKEA, here’s to reality.

Ice Cream by Design...

Creamier Ice Cream at Toa Payoh Lorong 1

Creamier, I was told, is an ice cream shoppe opened by designers. But that does not matter. When it comes to food, the proof is still in the pudding. In this case, it’s in the ice cream.

When I got here, I was told that the waffle is a ‘must try’. So that’s what I did. I asked for the waffle topped with a ball of Horlicks and chocolate chip ice cream. After a 15-minute wait, the sweet treat arrived. The waffle was nicely sweet and delightfully crispy outside. I was suspicious of the ice cream though – it tasted more like something with banana. They probably got mine mixed up with someone else’s – my dessert arrived before someone who ordered before me.

Ultimately, the texture of the waffle was okay and the taste of the ice cream was nice, but I still prefer Gelare when it comes to waffle ice cream dessert.

Epigram’s Pop Up Sale

Epigram Popup Book Sale

Were you there at Epigram’s pop up sale? It turned out to be more of gathering of us sketchers who were there. We had a rollicking good time chatting with and sketching one another. And of course, I ended up picking up a few titles from the book sale.

Of Pintu Pagars and Ceramic Tiles: The Singapore Peranakan House.

Peranakan-style house #157 along Tembeling Road, Katong.

Detail of the ceramic tile featured on the columns

The Peranakan house stands out from other pre-war houses with the inclusion of the pintu-pagar (literally ‘fence door’). It allowed privacy to the home dwellers without interfering with the ventilation of the house. The Perankan house is also differentiated with its use of decorative ceramic tiles that are as intricately designed as their sarong kebaya blouses.

I spotted this particular house along Tembeling Road in Katong and was intrigued by the intricate carvings of the teakwood pintu-pagar. The ceramic tiles on the columns, discretely incorporating the yin-yang symbol (see left picture), also attracted me. The Peranakans (or at least the ones I know) are a traditional and superstitious tribe. It shouldn’t be surprising, if the original intention of the tiles also included those of the spiritual persuasion, apart from the obvious aesthetics ones.

Incidentally, I remember this area well. When I was a wee-bit, my dad used to bring to me to his friend’s place in Siglap for visits during the weekends. I usually end up playing in the huge garden at his friend’s bungalow. As I grew older, the beach at East Coast Park was also a regular venue for our family picnics. It was filled with memories of me trying to swim in the sea, my little brother getting really dark in the sun and of course, my mum’s delicious fried bee hoon for our picnic lunch. Those were the days of simple, joyous and fun.

Building at the Junction of Koon Seng and Joo Chiat Road.

Conservation Peranakan-style shophouse at the junction of Koon Seng and Joo Chiat Road.

Historical Namesake of the Place

Koon Seng Road is named after Cheong Koon Seng (b. 1880 - d. 1932) in 1934. Before that, it was known as Lorong East Coast. Cheong Koon Seng was one of the first 13 students of Anglo-Chinese School. He went on to build the old Theatre Royal and Star Opera Company which used to be located along North Bridge Road. Professionally, Mr Cheong was an auctioneer, a real estate agent and a charter member of the first Rotary Club of Singapore. Meanwhile, Joo Chiat Road is named after "King of Katong" Chew Joo Chiat.

Koon Seng Road was a predominantly used for residential purposes, but it had a bustling atmosphere as a business centre with all the shophouses lining the street. The area was originally a Peranakan enclave until the 1970s when Peranakans began moving to other parts of Singapore. Secret societies used to be very active in the area then. Triad gangs such as Gang 18 and 36th Pai 'controlled' the area around this road. Old kampongs that use to be situated around the vicinity proved to be good hiding places, especially for their  weapons. Although violence was limited to inter-gang fights and did not affect the residents directly, those who grew up in the area in the 1950s would remember scenes of violent fights that were fervent and common then.

Park Connector along Whampoa River at St George's Lane

The rain stopped in the late morning and I had the chance to sketch this in the afternoon after work...

The PUB and NParks has been working collaboratively to develop the waterways and waterbodies traversing the island in a network of rivers, streams and ponds.

Driven by the vision of sparkling rivers with landscaped banks, kayakers paddling leisurely in the streams with clean waterways flowing into the picturesque lakes, Singapore has undertaken the challenge of transforming into a City of Gardens and Water. 

Over the years, Singapore has gradually developed a pervasive network of about 8,000km of waterways and 17 reservoirs for our water supply. To realise the full potential of this water infrastructure PUB has launched the Active, Beautiful, Clean Waters (ABC Waters) Programme in 2006. It is a strategic initiative to improve the quality of water and life by harnessing the full potential of our waterbodies. 

By integrating the drains, canals and reservoirs with the surrounding environment in a holistic way, the ABC Waters Programme aims to create beautiful and clean streams, rivers, and lakes with postcard-pretty community spaces for all to enjoy.

This is the area near my neighbourhood. I have seen and experienced the place since I was a child. It was a river, then a canal and now a rather visually pleasing water way of trails, tracks and tree-hooded walkway. This neighbourhood water park also integrates a few outdoors gym and exercise grounds, children's playgrounds and also a couple of gazebos with attached BBQ pits.

Every evening, you'll see residents taking casual walks in the cooling breeze and joggers blazing the tracks. Meanwhile, the BBQ pits are almost always busy during the weekends, bustling with families and friends gathering, while enjoying the taste of freshly charcoal-grilled meats by the riverside, under the shelter of the gazebos.

Beautiful. Useful. Space.

Poppies in bloom: we're not in Kansas anymore, Toto...

Bright vermillion poppies blooming in the summer heat at the poppies at the Botanischer Garten/Flora in Cologne, Germany

So the cleaning lady was at my place today. The session forced me to take a look at the remaining luggage left to be unpacked: my sketches from the trip. This is the first in a whole set of drawing including loose sheets and a whole Moleskine sketchbook. I'm going to be taking my time to upload them... scanning is no joke.

I decided to visit the Cologne Botanic Garden (Botanischer Garten/Flora) on what turned out to be the hottest day of the year thus far (then). The blazing sun brought out the intense colours and beauty of the flowers in bloom at the garden. It also meant that I dehydrating fast. I have never drank water at a faster pace than when I was there that day.

I was particularly attracted to the poppies there: a collection of flower beds filled with nothing but poppies. Of course, one can also find the very iconic opium pods. I couldn't resist sitting down to draw the very loud and ostentatious blooms. After all, how often does one see so many poppies at once? It is a controlled/banned horticultural product in Singapore.

Al fresco in the torrid tropical temperatures? Thanks...

Friends hanging out al fresco at a cafe in the central business district.

When I travel to countries in the temperate zones, one of the first things I always like to do, is find an al fresco cafe. I'd order a cuppa and bask in the sun while enjoying the fresh cool air. It's like sitting in an aircon room while watching the world go by. Relaxing and careless.

However, I find al fresco seats intriguing and whimsical in the local tropical context. Sitting in the heat and humidity when there are air-conditioned options is a no-brainer to me. It's no joke dressing up to go to town and then sit while melting in the torrid heat. It is, therefore, no surprise then, that most of the time, it's the foreigners who form the majority of the numbers sitting out there, al fresco...

Lei Garden at CHIJMES | 利苑

The al fresco seats at Lei Garden, CHIJMES from across the sunken courtyard.

I first experienced Lei Garden's dim sums at the Orchard outlet at my aunt's recommendation. Well, it was her treat too. The spread on the menu is pretty much what you'd expect from a dim sum place. I was satisfied with the taste and presentation of the restaurant then.

I didn't know about this one at the CHIJMES and was intrigued when I saw it on my last official sketchwalk with the USKSG. The al fresco seating arrangement is positively refreshing in a place as hot and humid as this.

I might return to try their dim sum before the place closes down for an overhaul of the whole complex.

Going back in CHIJMES and getting a feel of Insomnia...

Insomnia (pub) at CHIJMES

Miraculously, work ended earlier today and I was able to make a trip to town. Inevitably, I found myself back in the good ol' CHIJMES. I guess I really wanted to capture the feel of the place before it goes into a massive overhaul and the whole façade and atmosphere of the place change.

Guess what...? When I got there, I promptly got Insomnia...

At CHIJMES like these...

View of the chapel at CHIJMES from across the sunken courtyard.

HELP! I've been bitten by the CHIJMES-bug and there's no saving by the proverbial bell!

I was able to get off early from work today. Seeing that the weather was bright and sunny and too good to be wasted being stuck indoors, I decided to pack my art materials for a quick jaunt to the conservation-mall. When I got there, it was perfect: the weather, the lighting, the crowd (or lack of it).

Without any ado, I unpacked my stuff and began with my colourful love affair with THE building - the chapel (which is now a multi-purpose hall). Over the past weekend, although I had painted AROUND the famous chapel, I had not done one of it. Today, in the bright and brilliant sunlight, the chapel bathed in shimmering colours, singing its melodious and colourful hymns of light.

I succumbed to its siren song and let its spectrum guide my paints and brushes.